Keep your boards dry!

I mean, it’s obvious, but here’s what happens when the poor things suffer combination of electricity and water…

image
The smell from this was.... Not unlike that of Subway bread being baked.
image
That's some mighty fine soldering, Lou.
image
The bubble under the solder resist fell off when i washed the board, revealing a sticky puddle of degraded resin and smelly corrosion.

image

image

image
Board at left is the radio receiver. Gee I wonder why I was getting a no signal error!
image
Yackage water.

THAT’S NOT WHAT THE OBD2 PORT IS FOR!!!

This is the ZTE Mobley.

It’s a small wireless hotspot device.

And it’s wrong. Wrong!!! IT’S WRONG!!!! No!!!

image

Note the connector on the end of the device. This is an OBD2 diagnostic connector. If your vehicle is a US model (elsewhere?) and model year 1997 or later, it has one within three feet of the driver’s seat, usually under the dashboard.

On this port are +12 volt power, supplied from the engine control module, and several data lines. Newer vehicles likely use a CAN bus that is essentially grand central — everything uses it for communication.

You should simply not mess with this port if you don’t know what you’re. Here are some good reasons why.

A) Possible ECM damage.

The DC power on this port is limited. Short it out and one of two things happen. If you’re lucky, a fuse in the fuse box blows. Your vehicle shuts down immediately and will not restart until it is changed.

If you are not lucky, a circuit trace or internal pico fuse inside the ECM pops. Same as above, but you CAN’T replace it. Your vehicle is BRICKED. It’s possible the fuse protects only the OBD2 PORT power, in which case no diagnostic tools will work on the port until it’s fixed. Engine fault codes can’t be retrieved or cleared, and it will not pass an emissions inspection.

Internal repair to the ECM will be needed which may or may not be possible.

ECM replacement may be an option on older vehicles, but on newer ones and most European ones, you may find you also have to replace other modules that are keyed to the ECM for security (and service resistance) reasons.

B) “who the fuck is really driving?”

Did you see where I said that *everything* depends on that CAN network on newer vehicles? I mean it.

So here’s what can happen if the device were to mess up the CAN communications.

First off, your vehicle will likely shut down immediately or act really weird for a moment before doing so.

Second, you may lose control and crash. Seriously.

On some vehicles, a lot of functions that really shouldn’t be on the network in my opinion are.

Things like control over power brake assist, power steering, throttle….

I should mention how much I love my car’s hydraulic pedal clutch, old school hydraulic power steering, vacuum brake assist*, and manual transmission about now.

Even more worrisome is the thought that the hotspot device may actually be capable of sending and receiving data on the bus. It has metal pins in all the right places, at least.

Recently it was proven that CAN bus access could be used to remotely cause loss of control on a Chrysler vehicle and run it off into a ditch.

Just saying.

Don’t use this shit. ZTE should be fucking ashamed for even making it. It would have been just as easy to make it plug into a lighter socket; many vehicles have extras, some of which have constant power.

Oh, get this, Verizon offers the Delphi Connect, which actually touts canbus connectivity as a… “feature”.

image
Fuck that noise.

* Actually there is an ABS pump, which may still be able to override brake pedal pressure, but nothing can disable the handbrake for the rear wheels… At least there’s that. WTF is with those electric parking brakes?!

How to properly wurf. You douchebags.

Whenever dealing with old electronics, you will always run into some annoying tart who exclaims, “but look at wat its wurf on da eeeeebay!!” and waves an unsold buy it now listing in your face. I’ve written about this previously.

Here’s how to properly wurf.

Step one:
Skip bathing for a few days, rub the contents of an ashtray all over yourself and breathe through your mouth.

Step two:
Go to eBay and sign in. Don’t have an eBay account? WTF are you doing wurfing anyway? Repeat step one.

Step three:
Search for the desired item.

image
No no no! That's not how much it's wurf.

For this example I’m using the Yaesu FT-101 which is a 30 year old HF radio, great for its time but now dated and a pain in the ass to maintain due to dwindling availability of PA tubes.

This is where your truly awful wurfers stop, upon seeing that high unsold buy it now price.

Step four:

Click Refine.

image

image

Scroll down. Set condition to used unless the item is brand new in original packaging. Otherwise I’m gonna have to stab you.

image

See that Show More option? That’s a magic button, pressing it will allow you to attain true wurf.

image

Tap sold items. This will check completed as well automatically.

You have wurfed. Tap done and view the results:

image
Guess what, twatchute, you're not sitting on a goldmine.

Yes, you can do the same thing from desktop eBay search, but most wurfing takes place on smartphones now.

You’re welcome.

image

Fun with IMSI catchers.

Yes, there are IMSI catchers being abused hardcore around south Florida. News to no one…

hork hork hork hork hork hork
From “Married To The Sea”. Click to visit their site.

Unfortunately, my dumb luck— I have a phone that tosses its cookies upon hitting one repeatedly.

It’s somewhere either at the Port of Miami or on Watson Island.

What’s it do? For one, upon connecting to it, any call or data transfer occurring gets dropped on its head.

Second, after being pinged enough times and taking to its semi broken CDMA network emulation, the phone deletes its APN settings! This breaks MMS messaging completely until it’s fixed. So far I’ve just been fixing it by dialing ##scrtn# which dumps the provisioning data and makes the radio reactivate to the network.

image

 

But first, I have to get far away from this stupid IMSI catcher, because it pipes up and breaks the reactivation.

Aaaaarrrgghhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!

If I don’t fix the problem after moving out of range, the phone will actually get stuck in a useless limbo state until I do reactivate.

image
SEEMS FUCKING LEGIT.

The final confirmation of it being an IMSI catcher was made using the wonderful aimsicd utility which caught the system’s LAC and BSID rotating between nonsense values. Oh and then I got THIS oddball call – strange but nowhere near as strange as the one I got when my old HTC COMPLETELY freaked out and died from the same thing; I found it almost too hot to touch, 25 minutes into a call to “#”. If I talked into it I could hear an odd echo, and it wouldn’t hang up. spoopy.

Speaking of spoopy here’s the Umigo website looking utterly wrong. You’re uhhh welcome

image

If you want to detect these stupid things, get AIMSICD. You don’t need a rooted phone to detect the nasties, though there are a few functions in there that only work on one. So far I’ve seen one fairly permanently in use near the Port of Miami and American Airlines Arena, and one that gets moved around the Hollywood, Florida area (vehicle mounted?) – it logged an alert on my phone when it was driven by at 2 in the morning. Niiice.

Digital Illogic, or The Fnord Elevator!

image

This is the control system for the freight elevator at work in a valid running state (idle, leveled at floor, doors open, ready to serve). I forgot to take a picture of its Fnord state but it looks much different. From the outside, the fnorded state is simply that the doors fly open with an unusually loud bang, leaving you with a six inch or so step up or down to the floor, followed by the elevator no longer responding in any way other than opening or closing the doors.

Update: I forgot, I actually have a video of it… BEHOLD! YOU CAN SEE THE FNORDS!

Many things can Fnord it. To unfnord it, one usually just cycles the power off for a minute then back on, and all is well. This time the Fnord levels were just too great and it needed intervention if the janitor was to be able to get their cart out of there. Continue reading »

Shotweld appreciation post.

The Shotweld process was invented in 1932 at the Edward G. Budd corporation for welding 18/8 autensitic stainless steel without ruining its corrosion resistance, ductility, and fatigue resistance imparted by heat treatment. Shotweld requires accurate control of electrical current level and welding time for each shot. Done properly, it produces a joint stronger than rivets which does not create a hole in the workpiece (source of localized stresses at the hole edges, among other undesirables) and does not require a minimum spacing to avoid loss of strength (imagine the perforations on the edge of a saltine).

Plus, it lends itself to looking really awesome.

Rest assured, though Budd may no longer be making beautiful vehicles using this technique, electric resistance spot welding is still quite alive and well in modern industry, creating durable welded joints in all sorts of metals. The key of course is the regulation of time and amperage.

Properly done, the only way to remove a spot welded joint is to drill through the spot welds. It’s a good way of essentially turning several pieces of sheet metal into one.

Also, can we just take a moment to appreciate the fact that the gutter lip in the photo above has withstood over 30 years of Miami moisture and salt and shows no signs of every wanting to give up? That’s hard core.

High current Molexia, or “why’s the dryer acting stupid?”

image

This is what you get when Molexia strikes at about 20 amps of load. It doesn’t smell great.

On a side note, I now understand why some dryers have a broken belt interlock switch that the belt tensioner lands on if it goes slack. On this Frigidaire stack unit, a broken belt lets the tensioner arm land on the motor shaft, causing them to loudly wear a divot in each other and rain metal fillings down into the chassis below.

There was also a completely disintegrated foam gasket that interfaces the lint filter/exhaust duct to the blower inlet.. I never took a picture of it, but my solution was to angrily glob half a tube of rtv silicone there to stick the two back together.

Good Enough For Museum Work.

image

Pooped Pop Video Player!

Updated: Do not, for the love of cheeeeze, bump this thing while it’s running or it will throw a big scary blue screen NMI / parity check error and scare you to the very core of your being

wpid-wp-1435769410872.jpg Well well well, would you look what tripped and fell on its face today? This is an old Visual Circuits POPVideo Player, from the late 1990s. Amazingly, the only problem here was a bad power supply.

But let’s look inside, because, oh man, this thing should be a computing history museum piece.

 

The year was 1990-something. People were still dancing the Macarena everywhere. Grunge rock was still going strong, accompanied by some pretty nice sort of folk music, a lot having female vocalists and very little Studio Magic. Digital signage was just starting to really catch on and replace static signage in advertising and the like, using CRT televisions or video projectors… and the Pop Video Player was ready and willing to drive this.

The features: Hard disk video storage of MPEG-2 content… updatable via changing the removable hard drive out, or over IP via modem (!!!) or Ethernet interface. Windows NT 3.51 or 4.00 (hurrrrk!) based machine on an AMD K6-2 at 200 mhz…

Needless to say, a PC of this thing’s stature would have trouble playing any sort of video, so it’s got some custom hardware. Special cards with four MPEG-2 decoder ASICs, audio codecs, and framebuffers with S-Video and composite outputs were used. The software then only has to fill the buffers on each of the MPEG-2 decoders and respond to control commands which could be sent in by serial port (possibly over IP?).

And here we go on the magical history tour.

Continue reading »

1 4 5 6 7 8 11