OmneAAAAAHHHHHHH…n

Inspired by the driver of the car with California license plate SHSTAAH who kept alternately brake checking everyone in the left lane while next to semi trucks then going 90+ in the right lane and not allowing anyone to pass until they approached another truck to repeat the cycle of fuckery:

I was imagining this: a catapult to launch shitty old Omneon video servers through your rear window at great velocity

Fooooore! *YEET*

That is all, thank you for being a turdburglar

So spell out “I M A G E Lightbulb”…

Hey look, there’s a CYX bulb…..

And it’s terrifying

The pins are about 3/8″ diameter and the whole bulb is 8 1/4 inches high overall with the light output centered 5″ above the bottom. It has an average life of 300 hours. The normal application has it inside a Mr. McLargeHuge stage fresnel safely locked away behind a big thick glass lens and a metal screen. I don’t even want to think about it too hard.

For a small $945 you can get a VisionSmith ReLamp module that lets you replace it with a 275 watt LED that pays for itself *rapidly* in reduced air conditioning and power costs…

The best testimonial I’ve ever seen

From a fellow engineer:

Our guys were so impressed with the Selenio at our sister station that as the NetVX aged into backup status, we bought a Harmonic.

selenio shitpost
sorry, I only have M$ Paint on this workstation and it’s fairly useless for proper shitposting

 

For the uninitiated— what this unit does in its most common configuration in a TV station is it takes in one or more audio/video inputs, encodes them to MPEG-2 program streams for digital television, and finally sends the output out as an ASI stream. An ASI stream is a combined feed of all of the subchannels to be sent over the air plus the metadata (PSIP), and is what is actually modulated and sent out by the transmitter. The PSIP is used as an index by your receiver and populates both the channel definitions and the program/station info that gets displayed in the program guide. That being said, it is the house of cards upon which your entire station is delicately balanced. 😉

In all seriousness, this is one of the strangest, most fragile, and most inherently unsupportable pieces of hardware I’ve ever worked with. The UI from which you have to perform most configuration tasks is based on Microsoft Silverlight, which is a dead-ass format M$ came up with to compete with Flash, which is also a dead-ass format. Double-dead-ass? I dunno. It’s pretty awful and soon I predict that’ll require us to keep some old computer around with an EoL version of Windows and Silverlight installed and no auto updates allowed because M$ will just decide to flush Silverlight away entirely.

There’s also a telnet interface into the thing for which there’s little documentation. Certain configuration tasks (which is to say most of them) require a call in to Imagine Communications support because it’s just… well, at least one person who worked on the software knows how it works, right?

The hardware design is kinda questionable and the firmware hocks up hairballs for no good reason. So far across the three of these I’ve worked with, I’ve experienced phantom frame controller failures, A/V desync, audio loss, video loss, video freeze, video macroblocking, unreported loss of ASI output with invalid picture input, reported loss of ASI output with valid inputs, and one that just plain powered off and restarted during the evening news. Oh, and you see that little display on the front? It CAN display useful status information, but…. doesn’t. Also, Imagine Communications’ idea of a “screen saver” for the little OLED screen is to display “Imagine Communications” on the top line, unmoving, forever… so when you try to view any status/fault info, you’re reading it through a permanent shadow of “Imagine Communications” that’s practically CHISELED into the matrix. Ew.

 

The PISS

Note to self:

The PISS is a magical thing I came up with using a bog standard off the shelf outboard mixer along with the telephone hybrid to perform a few different functions including mix-minus, mono feed to the console, and stereo feed for recording (jock on one channel, caller on the other) to a computer for polishing up and re-airing later. I should really make a proper CAD diagram of this, but come on man it’s called the PISS, and it’s going riiiight in the shitpost category on this blog. The REC switch box thing is there because the USB interface in use was in the Arrakis MARC-16 console AND LET US NEVER SPEAK OF THAT SHITTY THING AGAIN

Oh, Elon Musk, you just got serenaded with horns.aiff IN SPACE

So earlier, Elon Musk posted someone else’s art to his Twitter then claimed crediting the artist is “destroying the medium” then he ragequit Twitter after being called out on it, by “deleting” his account, but not actually deleting it.

I feel kinda dirty for once looking up to this turd sandwich. I’m sorry, everyone. Here, enjoy some random derp pictures from my collection:

Aww shim

So that buzzing sound my 2014 Forester’s a/c compressor made since last year? Yeah it wasn’t supposed to do that.

I checked the clutch gap today after suffering mild heat exhaustion in 102 degree weather with the A/C blowing warm… .82 millimeter… Factory specs say 0.1-0.6mm.

Thus it was time to subtract a shim from the shaft.

And then my workday jumped to like 10 hours and crap so what follows:

There’s actually nothing to stop this from turning so I just grabbed it with my hand and used the wrench on the center bolt because I’m some scary beast

The compressor drive plate before cleaning

Pulley side after removing all three shims and before cleaning

I saw it recommended to torque the center to 10 foot pounds which worked fine with my bare hands, once again….

Now it seems I just have cold air constantly and no buzzing noise (was that it slipping??)

Update and data for the purposes of making this a little more indexing friendly: This compressor is a Valeo DKV-10Z
Subaru TSB number 10-84-16R indicates there’s a known issue with the electromagnet that contributes to this and that the official fix is to replace the compressor. However, the issue is actually entirely confined to the clutch itself and I’ve seen a clutch replacement kit available for about $90. If your vehicle is under warranty, go to the dealer for service. If not, the $90 kit should do, and you don’t have to evac/recharge the system. Looks to me like the only interesting tool you might need would be a snap ring plier and maaaaybe a puller and the spanner wrench for the rotor (since not everyone can just grab the front plate of the clutch like I can!)