buuuuut on a serious note here’s a conspiracy theory I had earlier today while staring at cows in a pasture
we WILL have a social credit system in the US like the horrific one in use in China that virtually imprisons those who have a low score —
however, it will come to be without any government approval, oversight, or involvement (at least initially).
It’ll be borne out of the ideas of some douchebag tech bros down in San Francisco who push the limits of our privacy by aggregating and mining a shitload of commercially available analytics databases and linking them back to our identities, facial recognition data, vehicle registrations, etc. They’ll come up with this great hot new product they sell to companies as a “risk analysis” to determine how good an employee or customer a particular person is and allow them to block less desirable persons from employment or from their services.
Eventually some unscrupulous lazy ass government contractor will buy one of these products and sell it to the US government for some goofball purpose like forming no-fly lists or supposed fraud detection…. and there you go, that’s where the government involvement will eventually come into play.
come one, come all, witness the beautiful dumpster fire that is late stage CRAPitalism!
(solution to the above problem: fill the california bay area with beans)
Of all the laptops I’ve worked on (and usually had a powerful sense of dread over doing so with) this one’s remarkably not awful at all. It just has a Lot ‘O’ Stuff under the hood. Everything’s modular and easily replaced if needed. The wireless radio is off the board to the left, it has space for two SSDs (they’re either JBOD or striped?) and a big mama subchassis that holds the heat pipes in place for cooling. My only complaints I guess would be that access to the RAM and the screws for the cooling fans requires removing the whole motherboard and flipping it over.
The bottom cover has a TON of screws (like 20 or so), but I’m guessing this was done more for stability— the thing feels like one solid piece of metal when it’s assembled.
The battery is in no way glued or even taped in place. Once you remove the bottom cover you can unplug it from the motherboard and lift it right out.
If I were writing a thing for ifixit.com I’d give this a very good repairability score. 🙂
Only tools needed– a spudger (for gently lifting the MHF / U.FL connectors on the wifi antennas), PH0 and PH1 screwdrivers. That’s it— seriously!!
I’m not a gamer but I kinda already want one. I’ve used MSI motherboards in a few computers over the years and have never had any problems with them – they’ve only ever been removed from service due to eventual hopeless obsolescence. The reason we had to dive into this one was that the GPU cooling fan bearing had gone bad and it was starting to sound like some kind of moaning banshee.
So what do you do when the factory service loaner for your STL receiver (which is working fine other than having a dead display so you can’t get to the settings) arrives deaf and sounding like a dirty skipping CD?
You place the 3d printed Pusheen atop the transmitter and prepare to launch your revolt against a toxic society and eat the damn rich
Regarding my previous shitposting, the cable length from the filter output to the LNA input turned out to be maddeningly critical.
About 18 inches:
I’ll take it! My concern was mainly attenuating crap around 1 GHz that I suspect is some kinda leakage off WiSP radios…
I’ve been working a couple of insane days for the end of this week so the company has me staying in a nearby hotel they have trade with. As not to piss anyone off I won’t name it, but it’s in a beautiful place outside the city, on the bank of the river. They make a big deal about being a LEED certified facility.
Last night I got there, checked in, and went to my room. I picked up one of the coffee mugs and it had a waxy feeling mess on the outside and smelled like hibiscus blossoms. There were bits of the same inside the mug.
I figured it hadn’t been washed properly so I looked underneath. The “made in China” paper sticker was still fully intact. I sanitized it by boiling water in it in the microwave, let it cool, and used paper towels and isopropyl alcohol I had in my car to clean it out.
The next evening, the mug I had used was back under a paper dust cover and this time both of them had a thick coating of the waxy junk.
On the bathroom counter are two pump top bottles… One’s a hand soap that smells like lavender. One’s a lotion.. ….
Okay, it’s easy, just start steeping some hemlock into the blood of a virgin in a quartz flask upon an altar of old single sided floppies and get to work—-
you will not know this horror unless you experience it for yourself and i recommend you not.
sonicwall was clearly developed by someone who had a raging databases-where-databases-are-not-due fetish.
you do not just specify addresses. you do not just specify ports.
You create address objects.
You create service objects to define ports.
Then you define NAT rules.
HOWEVER…. if you manually enter or edit anything about a NAT rule, for arcane and horrible reasons that have apparently never been addressed in over a decade worth of firmware versions, they break. The only reliable way to create these rules is to go into Quick Configuration and use the Public Server Wizard. There, you can create your objects (or select them if they’re existing already) and bake them into a NAT rule.
Then maybe 40% of the time it works and the rest of the time you’re frantically SSH’ing into a remote shell somewhere else and crying into your coffee over the output of nmap.
I was getting so annoyed with my printer repeatedly losing its build plate surface… This Malyan M200 / Monoprice Select Mini V2 originally came with a black sticker on the build plate which I replaced with a piece of PEI sheet held down with 3M 468MP adhesive.
Two spectacular failures later, I decided to try covering the aluminum plate with painter’s tape. This was a common technique dating back to very early experiments with 3D printing, and I figured it’d probably just fallen out of favor because PEI sheets or BuildTak or whatever were just better.
Several completely successful prints later….
I’m convinced this is the way to go.
The only odd part I guess is that the tape doesn’t appear to last for more than one print, but that’s fine. The print sticks to it well but pops off when it’s done. Now I just need to adjust my slicer settings a little (see the gaps where the infill didn’t hit the perimeter?)
Guess I’ll be keeping blue tape around from now on!
My brother, who runs a fabrication lab at FIU, reports that it’s specifically 3M blue painter’s tape – other brands don’t have a top surface that adheres to the melted plastic and the printer will just pull a “drag spaghetti around in circles” dance.
Cassie approves because now, instead of me wasting time scraping little bits of plastic off the PEI sheet, I just pop the print off, replace the bed with three new strips of tape, then go back to petting her.